NorthKorea


Pictures of North Korea, part 3: first views of Pyongyang
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Pictures of North Korea, part 3: first views of Pyongyang

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip… More pictures. Click on them for larger views. Our first morning driving out from the hotel. We experienced driving in North Korea for the first time the night before, coming in from the airport. We landed in the early evening, but night had fallen by the time we reached the city. With almost no streetlights the city was dark. People kept narrowly getting out of the way of the bus. We kept getting shocked that a family wouldn't hurry and would barely not get hit. We soon concluded North Koreans don't have much experience with cars. The streets were nearly always empty. We nearly never stopped for traffic lights. We never hit traffic. The cars we saw were…

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Pictures of North Korea, part 2: preparing for our first adventure
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Pictures of North Korea, part 2: preparing for our first adventure

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip… More pictures. Click on them for larger views. Today's pictures are more about our group than North Korea, per se, but they do feature some of the first North Koreans ever throwing frisbees (actually Discrafts, for those who know the difference). The morning after we arrived, waiting to get in the buses to go south to the Demilitarized Zone. We've all met enough to shake hands but not all to converse yet. I think by this point no one knows everyone, though we all got to be friends by the end of the trip. Ingrid on the left, her boyfriend Neil, Joseph, Jordan, Gabriel, and John. Joseph and Jordan have planned the most, for about three years. We…

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Pictures of North Korea, part I: starting at the hotel
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Pictures of North Korea, part I: starting at the hotel

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... Now let's see some pictures. Click on them for larger views. The view from our hotel window. The sky was bluer than this picture shows, contrasting with the overcast and polluted skies of Beijing and Shanghai, the other two places I visited on this trip. Nearly all the pictures I've seen online of Pyongyang include something about our hotel. It seems all visitors stay there. They built our hotel on an island. You can see a nine-hole golf course below, but you couldn't see it from the ground level. I'm not sure if it worked. The golf course seemed incongruous with my expectation of North Korea. Every morning we were there I heard industrial dredging-like sound coming from…

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Basic observations of North Korea

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... Here are some basic observations I saw in North Korea without embellishment or analysis. When I looked out my hotel room the first night we arrived to see about half the city, because of their dearth of electrical power I could count the number of cars driving: two. Buildings outside Pyongyang were bunker-like concrete slabs, many unfinished. Many people appeared to live in unfinished buildings. On the highway between Pyongyang and the Demilitarized Zone we passed two adjacent unfinished bridges falling into streams as if construction halted unexpectedly year ago, like ancient ruins. That highway was divided, with two or three lanes in each direction. For most of the roughly two-hour trip we saw no other vehicles than…

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Expectations of North Korea

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... One of this trip's major themes was the difference between expectations and experiences; also recognizing that expectations -- Americans have wild expectations of North Korea -- say things about yourself, not them. Experiences say something about the interaction between others and yourself. Americans, myself included, know little about North Korea and North Koreans. Our expectations tell us about what gets past the filters of their media and ours. The dominant expectations I hear Americans having of North Koreans are North Korea is dangerous and lawless The North Korean government jails westerners frequently for long times and tortures them The North Korean military is huge and omnipresent, goose-stepping about frequently The country is dreary and the people lifeless People…

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North Korea bibliography and what I will write about

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... Since returning I've found people incredibly interested in North Korea. For better or worse, many people ask what human rights issues I saw there, if any. People far more experienced than I have investigated and reported on North Korea beyond what I could observe. If you want to learn about their experiences, you can find them. See below for a short bibliography. I will write on what I saw, doing my best to avoid exaggeration and speculation, or at least note where I do so. I know plenty happened outside the field of view the North Korean government permitted us, perhaps outside Pyongyang or far from us, but maybe right under our noses. I don't intend to write…

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The Ethics of Visiting North Korea

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... If you read this blog regularly you know I don't find value in people telling others what they should consider right or wrong, which ethics discussions usually do. I try to avoid using judgmental or evaluative language except when the criteria for evaluating are clear. Talk about visiting North Korea and you'll find people want to talk about the rightness or wrongness of going. I can't say what's right or wrong for anyone else, but I can share how I worked things out for myself. If that helps you, I'm glad. If not, feel free to share your disagreement. I might learn something. The North Korean government presents itself as the best in the world. The rest of…

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What’s touring North Korea like?

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... The next most common question after how to get to North Korea and its legality is what it's like. This blog will cover the experience in depth. For now some overall conditions of touring North Korea. Later posts will cover the sites and experiences. This post covers the basics of how the tour goes. Limited choice The North Korean government gives you a limited choice in the places you can go, basically choosing from a list of a few dozen government-approved places. Want to go elsewhere? Not likely. If you read where others have gone, you'll hear the same short list almost each time and see pictures of the same places. Since almost no one knows what North…

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How to get to North Korea and if you can legally

Continuing writing about my North Korea trip... Mention you went to North Korea and you'll hear two questions more than any others: How do you get there and is it legal? With proper paperwork Americans can legally tour North Korea, according to the State Department, but it warns you you're taking serious risks, you just have no legal recourse from the U.S. government because the two countries have no diplomatic relations. How to get there, on the other hand, can be easy. I hear doing all the paperwork yourself is impossibly complex. On the other hand, letting Koryo Tours handle the paperwork, as we did, makes everything easy. All you have to do is show up in Beijing with a double entry visa to China,…

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North Korea!

The trip of a lifetime began with this message on my birthday from my friend Jordan Hey happy birthday man! All the best! What do you have planned for this year? p.s. I'm going to North Korea in August -get jealous! :) North Korea?!? That came out of the blue. I had never considered going before. Could I travel there legally? Safely? I didn't even know what questions to ask. But I knew Jordan. He's a great guy with great friends. I knew enough that if he was organizing, I would love the trip. Besides -- f'ing North Korea! I agreed to go before thinking what would come of it. I didn't have the budget after Shanghai the month before. But who knew the next…

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